Dirty Collabs: Emma Rothkopf, Clothing Designer

Dirty Collabs: Emma Rothkopf, Clothing Designer

Emma Rothkopf is the Los Angeles-based founder and designer behind EMMA ROTHKOPF Clothing, a seasonless, small batch brand defined by timeless design, natural materials and an intimate sense of place. Emma says her design approach is shaped by her own experiences: the vintage silhouettes of her mother’s 1960s and 1970s clothing, the ease of clothes worn during her collegiate soccer years, and the legacy of her great grandfather’s denim and underwear shop on the Lower East Side of New York. For August’s Dirty Collabs, we sat down with Emma to learn about where she finds inspiration, what she dislikes about the word “sustainability” in fashion, and her best laundry tips for delicate pieces. Read the full interview below.

Tell us a little about your background—where did you grow up?

I grew up in a small town in Massachusetts, very Little Women. Louisa May Alcott lived there as a child, and her father even started a Utopian community that’s now a museum. It was a place full of history and surrounded by nature, and that mix has definitely stayed with me. As kids, we were free to roam around town with friends, and I loved that childhood freedom.

Where did your work in fashion begin?

After studying Fine Art and English at Amherst College, I took a cross-country road trip that opened me up to life outside New England. From there, I studied design briefly in London and eventually landed at Apiece Apart in New York. It was an incredible education in everything from sourcing fabrics to building a collection, and eventually I became their Design Director. When I moved to Utah in 2019, I felt ready to build something of my own. In 2021 I moved to Los Angeles, where being close to local makers has really helped my brand grow.

How does your background influence your designs now?

Massachusetts gave me an early love of tradition and vintage clothing, New York was where I learned construction and craft from amazing makers, Utah brought me the space and landscapes that shaped my palette, and Los Angeles adds a free-spirited, unfussy ease to the way I design.

Your focus is on small batch, seasonless pieces. Why was that important to you?

I started my brand because I wanted clothes that felt timeless and lasting. Working in small batches lets me be intentional with every detail and avoid waste. Designing seasonless pieces means you can wear them year-round, in different ways, without them ever feeling “out of season.” Each piece should live in a wardrobe for years and work with whatever someone already has.

What is your philosophy around sustainability?

I don’t love the word “sustainability” because it’s overused, unregulated, and often misused through greenwashing. For me, it’s about making clothes that last and pieces I could imagine myself wearing for years, and that my younger and older friends would both love. I stick to natural fibers so we’re not wearing or working with toxic materials, and because they simply feel better on the skin. I also work with very small, often family-run manufacturers, so I know every piece is made ethically and responsibly by someone I’ve met. Making clothing is inherently adding to the problem, so I try to make only what will truly sell, in the most local way possible.

In your line, how do you balance sustainability with design and even health and safety?

I see them all working together in the line. Natural fibers are not only better for the environment but also safer for the people making and wearing them. Working with limitations in what fabrics, yarns, or colors I use forces me to be more creative, which keeps the collections fresh.

What is your approach to laundry and why does a good detergent matter to you?

Clothing doesn’t end at the moment of purchase, it keeps living in your closet, hopefully for many years. How you care for your clothing matters. A good detergent protects fabrics, avoids harsh chemicals, and keeps garments beautiful for longer. It’s all part of the equation: the longer a piece lasts, the less waste we create.

Any good laundry tips, especially for delicate pieces?

Always use cold or warm water and skip the dryer whenever possible. Air drying is gentler and keeps clothes in better shape. For fresh stains, I swear by a trick from my grandmother: boil water in a kettle and pour it on the spot from a height. If you do it right away, it lifts almost anything without rubbing or detergent.